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A pattern of Alex's in McCall's Quilting states that she chose to use reverse applique. Can you explain this method of applique to me?
To reverse applique you would have your two pieces of fabric. Transfer your main shape to the right side of the top layer of fabric. Pin the two layers together on both the inside and outside of the shape or marked cutting line. Carefully cut along the marked line on the top layer only. Then, using needle-turn applique method turn under the seam allowance of the inside shape and stitch to the bottom layer of fabric. Continue until you are done with the inside shape and then stitch the outside raw edge in the same manner with needle-turn applique to the bottom fabric. Remove pins and press. If you have a quilting question for Alex please send it to her at deeaaq@hotmail.com.
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How do you start to plan a new design? I would love to do one of my own.
When I start a quilt, three things need to happen;
The first thing that needs to happen is that I decide on the technique I want to use such as piecing or applique? Next I choose my block pattern. For example, if I had decided to do applique then I may choose to do the Rose of Sharon design. My third step is to choose a fabric pallet.
Once those three steps are completed I start making blocks and put them up on my design wall. As the blocks become neighbors, they direct the subsequent decisions. For example, do I vary the background fabric? Do I change the block size? Do I introduce another block?
All of this is a part of listening to your quilt as it takes form. That is perhaps the best part of making a quilt.
If you have a quilting question for Alex please send it to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I quilt on my regular sewing machine. When I am quilting the first two thirds of the quilt is almost flawless and the last part has lumps. It is where I quilt one way then go the other way and where my seams meet one side is bigger than the other and it causes a lump where they meet. Can you help me?
From your description it sounds like a basting issue. With machine quilting the rule of thumb is to pin baste starting in the center of your quilt and move outward about every four inches or a hand width apart. Most of the time shifting happens when the quilt has not been adequately basted.
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I had heard that somewhere there is a quilt that was made for Alzheimer patients that has different types of fabric, pockets, velcro, buttons, and things to keep their hands busy. Has anyone heard of or made one of these quilts? If you know or have made one please let us know by writing to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
If you have a quilting question for Alex you may also send it to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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When hand quilting feather wreaths, do you constantly turn the hoop so that you are always quilting toward you?
I work on a frame and use a thimble on my thumb when working away from myself. I do the same when working on a hoop. The book Hand Quilting with Alex Anderson is an excellent resource in answering your hand quilting questions. The photographs are very helpful and clear. Your can order it at www.alexandersonquilts.com.
If you have a quilting question for Alex you can e-mail her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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When I layer my quilt for hand or machine quilting it is loose and I quilt in puckers. What can I do to keep the back smooth?
Place your backing wrong side up on our carpet or work surface. Keeping the fabric grain straight, smooth and stretch the backing taut and pin or tape down. Layer the batting on top of the backing. Smooth the quilt top, right side up, onto the batting. Pin or hand baste the three layers together spacing every four to six inches. Hopefully that should do the trick. There are more helpful tips and illustrations in Machine Quilting with Alex Anderson which can be purchased from her website.
If you have a question for Alex you can send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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When I applique my thread seems to get tangled in my pins. It makes the process frustrating. Any suggestions for avoiding this?
One simple solution to this problem is to pin from the wrong side of the block. This way the pins are not in the way of your thread and you have no tangles.
If you have a quilting question for Alex you can e-mail her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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When I applique my thread seems to get tangled in my pins. It makes the process frustrating. Any suggestions for avoiding this?
One simple solution to this problem is to pin from the wrong side of the block. This way the pins are not in the way of your thread and you have no tangles.
If you have a quilting question for Alex you can e-mail her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I would like to add a cost effective cutting table with lots of storage in my sewing room. Do you have any ideas that might work?
Here is a great idea from Janice -
My husband and I were putting together my sewing room, and I had a
large low 9 drawer dresser I wanted to keep for storage. So, my husband bought
a hollow core paint grade interior door and glued it to the top of the dresser
with construction adhesive. The surface of the door came matte finish, so
nothing slides around, and the 32
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What is your opinion on starch vs. sizing while working on your quilt?
Starch gives more substance to the fabric than sizing - but in either case a person must be willing to immerse the quilt in water (basically wash it) after it is completed as starch (for sure - not sure about sizing) attracts silver fish.
If you have a quilting question for Alex please e-mail it to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I am always buying new pins and am never statisfied. They all seem to make such a bump and distort the piece. What kind of pins do you use?
I use very fine glass head pins. They eliminate the bump, go into the fabric smoothly and I don't get the distortion I get with heavier pins.
If you have a quilt question for Alex you may e-mail her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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When viewing thumbnail photos of fabric online, place your cursor on th photo, right click the mouse and then click on set as wallpaper. Minimize the current window and you'll see the fabric in all its glory on your desktop. Thanks Marge for a very helpful way to see the fabric choices easier. If you have a specific quilting question to ask Alex please e-mail it to deeaaq@hotmail.com.
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When I quilt the batting comes through the fabric onto the top of my quilt. What am I doing wrong?
This is called bearding. This happens more with polyester or synthetic battings than it does with cotton or wool. You will also want to check the batting to see that it is bonded which helps hold the fibers together more tightly. Another problem that causes batting to come through the cloth is if the fabric you are using is too loosely woven. The tighter the fabric is woven the less the batting will come through. To get rid of the bearding you can use a fabric shaver or use a wet cloth and rub it over the surface of your quilt.
If you have a specific quilting question for Alex or a helpful hint please e-mail it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I need to hang a quilt on metal and don't know what to do. Can you help?
I would suggest that you purchase flexible magnetic strips at your local hardware or home supply store. Put it in a fabric sleeve on the back of your quilt. The more loosely woven the fabric the better the magnet will work. For a heavy quilt you may need to use more than one magnetic strip to help hold it up. If you have a specific quilting question or have found a great solution to a quilting problem please send it to Alex at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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What is the best way to lay out your quilt when you have multiple types of blocks and or fabrics so that it looks wonderful?
A design wall is perfect for this because you can step back and get the overall effect of your quilt. I will also use a reducing lens. It makes the blocks you are viewing appear farther away which makes it ideal for gauging the overall effect of your quilt. If you have a specific quilting question for Alex you can send an e-mail to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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What is the best way to press curved seams?
I have found the best way to press curved seams is to press in the direction that will cause the least puckering. The other way is to press everything in the same direction of the shape you want to highlight whether that be the background or the pattern.
If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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What is reversed patchwork? Reversed patchwork is a patchwork piece that is a mirror image of another patchwork piece. To accomplish this technique you would need to use a template to cut a piece and then you would turn the template over or reverse it to cut your mirror image or reversed patchwork piece. If you have a question you would like to ask Alex you can write to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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First, decide what your pressing needs are and then search for the features that will get the job done. Irons that are considered professional have heavier soleplates, narrow shapes and have a lot more temperature variety than your basic iron which are all helpful to the quilter and crafter. Look for a smaller, narrower nose on the iron. It is more effective when pressing seams open. You will also want even heating across the plate of your iron. If you use steam look for an iron that has a good size reservoir. Another feature that can be helpful is to look for a smooth, nonstick, scratch resistant soleplate. If you have a question for Alex you may send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I am currently participating in a round robin quilting project. I am truly stumped on this particular round as to what I should do. Is there any way to know if what I think will be a good idea is or not before I sew the next round?
Great question! I would audition the borders. One way to do this would be to draw the quilt design onto graph paper and then add the border you wish and see how it auditions. Another way is to take a photo of the quilt top and copy it onto graph paper and then try your border idea and see if it works. This can also be helpful when designing your own borders for the quilts you make. If you have a question for Alex you can e-mail them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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What does it mean to fussy cut?
Fussy cutting is when you want to center a particular part of the fabric to fit within the size or boundaries of your block. For example, if I was making a star block with a kids fabric that had animals on it I would fussy cut the size of square I needed around one of the animals on the fabric so that it would be the center of the block. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to deeaaq@hotmail.com.
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I can't seem to get physically comfortabe while handquilting with a lap frame. Any suggestions?
I recommend that you cross your legs ankle to opposite knee to balance the hoop and keep both hands free for quilting. You might also try leaning the frame against a table so that both hands are free and the frame is balanced.
If you have a question for Alex please send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Dear Alex,
I have a ton of flying geese to make and I would like to use your secret sawtooth star method but how do I figure out how big to cut the squares?
Great question! First you must determine what size you want the block to be. Let's say you wanted your geese to finish at 3 inches by 6 inches. To the length of the block you would add 1 1/4 inch. That will make your large square 7 1/4 inches square. To the width of the 3 inch block you would add 7/8 inch. Therefore you would cut the four smaller squares 3 7/8 inches. An excellent detailed description of this is given in Alex's book Keep Quilting with Alex Anderson. This book can be ordered from her website. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Dear Alex,
How do I get started with machine quilting and where do I start? The part I don't understand is, I know I am supposed to start in the middle, however, do I go all the way out to the end of the side or what?
Thank you,
Melessa
Starting in the center, stitch one row in each direction, both vertically and horizontally, to secure the three layers. Work from the center out and quilt the remaining lines. Stitch in-the-ditch around the border seams and add quilting in the border. Alex's book, Beautifully Quilted with Alex Anderson is also a very helpful resource. It can be ordered from her website, www.alexandersonquilts.com.
If you have a question for Alex please send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Dear Alex,
I recently acquired a family quilt with butterfly applique. I am not sure when it was made, but it does appear to be old. Do you know the history of this pattern?
Amy VA.
Dear Amy,
I too acquired a butterfly quilt many years ago from my husbands side of the family. On Simply Quilts I learned that yes indeed there is significance behind this pattern. More than likely your quilt was made during the great depression (the 1930's). The butterfly symbolized hope when all was so dire. More than likely your quilt was made of left over fabrics from clothing or feed sacks. You have a family treasure which tells of your personal history, treat it kindly.
Alex
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There isn't necessarily a specific block that is used for a signature quilt. What you can do to make a signature block quilt is find an easy block pattern with a blank area for writing a message on or signing your name. Put all the blocks together and you have your signature quilt. If you have a question or helpful hint for Alex please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Bernina, of course! I have been a Bernina lover for over 22 years. This family owned Swiss company has dedicated itself to excellence for many generations. My first Bernina was a 931 and it was love at first sew and sight. Bernina has gracefully grown over the years and now has several models to choose from. In addition to all the incredible bells and whistles available today, my favorite features are needle up and down and the freehand system. For those who are longing to learn how to machine quilt, Bernina has brilliantly come up with the BSR, Bernina Stitch Regulator. The BSR watches the motion of the cloth and helps you achieve regular stitches when free motion quilting. When you go to shop for a machine make a list of how you use your current machine. The dealer can then help you choose the model that best fits your wants and needs. On a personal note, over the past four years I have had the honor and pleasure of working with Bernina on a professional basis. I always knew that their machines were top notch. Now, I can also boldly say, so are the people of Bernina. When the ad says, Nothing Sews like a Bernina, Nothing. Believe it. Happy shoppping.
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I seem to break a lot of needles when I hand quilt. How can I avoid this?
You can expect to go through a package of needles per quilt based on how aggressive you quilt. The other possibility is that you may have the quilt pulled too tightly in the frame. Loosen it up a little and see if that may help. Enjoy! I love hand quilting.
If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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When I have a piece of fabric I love I will put a border of sawtooth stars, flying geese, pinwheels or other favorites to add pizzazz and still enjoy the fabric. I then have fun with the quilting I do in the center. In fact, there will be some wonderfully fun patterns in my new book coming out in February. There I used baby fabrics. Watch the website for the book and order your autographed copy. If you have questions for Alex please e-mail them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Some good choices for covering a design wall would be fleece, a dense batting, flannel, and gridded flannel. I covered mine with gridded flannel which I purchased at a local quilt shop, Eddy's Quilting Bee in Mountain View, CA. If you have a question for Alex or a helpful hint please write to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Many of you are getting quilting rooms of your own and have been asking me what to keep in mind when furnishing your space.
I have shared with you before that lots of natural light is important, a design wall is a must, a sewing table with an adjustable chair for just the right height and a cutting table to fit as well are all important. As always, quilters have many wonderful ideas to share and many of you have shared those with me and now I would like to share your ideas with all of my readers. Please send in your ideas of what you couldn't live without in your sewing space and we will publish the list on my website. Send your ideas to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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I do not have the room to lay out the blocks for a quilt until I can complete it. I seem to waste valuable time laying out the blocks again each time I get ready to sew. How can I avoid this time waster?
I love my design wall for this very reason but when you don't have a design wall or the space for one it can make the job of laying out a quilt top a difficult one. One of my readers had a wonderful idea I thought I would share with you for this question.
Some quilters in my guild were recently making the Blooming Nine Patch. Many of us couldn't work on it much at home since it is a pattern that needs to be completely laid out in order to get the blocks together in the right order. I came up with the idea of laying down a sheet, then laying down batting and finally laying out the quilt blocks in the correct pattern. The blocks will stick to the batting and stay in place when you roll up all the layers together. You can unroll the quilt, small sections at a time, sew them together without having to have the entire quilt laid out on your living room floor for days at a time. This makes the entire project easily portable and when you get to quilting class, precious sewing time isn't spent laying out the quilt blocks again. Thank you Julie for a great suggestion.
If you have a question for Alex or a solution or tip for our readers please send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I finally have a sewing room of my own. I would like to purchase a sewing table. Do you have any advice for me?
The height at which you sew is very important. You will want to measure and/or have an adjustable table or chair so that you won't become fatigued or have sore shoulder and neck muscles. I suggest that you spend a little extra for an adjustable swivel office chair with no arms with good back support. I would also recommend that you get a sturdy table. I have recently purchased a sewing table made by Horn and I love it.
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How do I get my star points to come out as they should? I always seem to cut the points off or come out with a block that is too small.
Working with star blocks can be challenging. If you have cut properly it is a matter of knowing how the odd shaped pieces fit together. I have an excellent pictorial guide on page 9 of my Simply Stars book. Once you learn how to align the pieces you will come out with beautiful star blocks every time. If you have questions for Alex please e-mail them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com. To order Simply Stars click on alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php
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How do I keep my fabric from fraying and becoming a large ball of tangled mess in my dryer?
The best way I know of is to cut the corners off of your fabric pieces before you wash them. It keeps them from tangling in the dryer. You don't need to cut a lot but just a small diagonal cut across each corner. If you have a question for Alex please send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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Is it acceptable to mix machine and hand quilting in the same quilt?
As you know I love to hand quilt. I have a passion for it. But I do believe that it is acceptable to mix the hand and machine quilting. When deciding how to quilt your pieced work there are several categories your quilt might fall into. How is your quilt going to be used? If it is a quilt that will be passed down through the generations I would definitely hand quilt it. If it will be used a lot (ie: a baby quilt, college dorm, etc.) I would machine quilt it. I would use a combination of machine and hand quilting if it has areas in the quilt where beautiful hand work is shown off and it will be displayed somewhere in my home but I don't have the time to completely hand quilt it. Be sure to use a batting that is good for hand quilting. I generally use low loft Mountain Mist. I also use Betweens needles size 10 or 8. For more information on hand quilting or finishing your quilt check out the books Hand Quilting with Alex Anderson and Finish It with Alex Anderson. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I have pencil marks on my quilt. How do I remove them?
This is a difficult question to answer. I would suggest that you first try a fabric erasor and see if that will work. There is also a product called synthrapol(sp?) you might try to remove the marks. My advice is to never use a number 2 school bus yellow pencil to mark your quilts. It is next to impossible to get the marks out. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I have heard quilters refer to the magic numbers for cutting shapes. What are these magic numbers?
The magic numbers that are referred to is the desired finished size of your shape plus the amount you need to add for seam allowance. For example,a strip of fabric that you want the finished width size to be two inches you would cut your strips two and a half inches wide to allow for the seam allowance. For a quarter square triangle you would add one and one fourth inches to your desired finished size. For a complete quick reference guide to these magic numbers check out the book Rotary Cutting with Alex Anderson at alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php. If you have a question you would like answered please write to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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What is the appropriate width to cut for binding and how do I prepare the quilt to put the binding on?
I use double-fold binding, also called French-fold binding. The binding on your quilt should be firm and filled with batting. This looks better, and is better for the life of the binding. You should straighten the sides of your quilt with your ruler and rotary cutter as well as straighten your corners. Be careful that you do not trim off any important block elements, such as points when you do this. I cut my binding two and three eighths inches wide and fold it over wrong sides together and press. I sew the raw edges to the raw edge of my quilt with a one quarter inch seam. Following this formula I have a full binding for my quilt. For more detailed instruction and helpful techniques please check out the book Finish It with Alex Anderson. You can order it at alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php. If you have a question for Alex please send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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My wall hangings do not lie flat (I thought I had
measured the borders correctly). Is there a way to correct this after it has been quilted?
Without actually seeing your wall hanging is is difficult to make a judgement. However, I would ask if you have blocked your quilt. That usually does the trick. I would also encourage you to take your quilt to your local quilt store and ask them for help. If you have a question for Alex, please send it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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If making a quilt that has inside corners, how do you put on the binding?
You would put the binding on in much the same way you would put on a scalloped edge binding. First machine baste a scant quarter inch inside the edge of the quilt. Trim the layers along the marked line. Clip the raw edge at each dent or curve stopping just before the mark and basting stitches. Take your double fold bindng and begin pinning the binding to the quilt, aligning the raw edge of the binding to the raw edge of the quilt top. When you reach a dent or curve spread the dent to form a straight line. Continue pinning the binding to the straight edge, placing a pin on either side of the the dent to deep the binding aligned. Stitch on the binding. For excellent pictures and explanation of this process check out the book Finish It with Alex Anderson. You can order the book at alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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When pressing my blocks, how can I keep the bias edges from distorting?
Carefully press the nose of the iron over the seam without pushing the iron back and forth. Let the block cool in place after you have pressed and that too will cut down on any distortion. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail her at DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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Is one type of thread better than another for hand applique?
Thread is an important part of applique. It should match the color of the applique piece and not the background. The most common thread is the 50 weight 100 percent cotton thread. This thread will work just fine. However, there are finer threads that will help hide your stitches. One type is embroidery 60 weight thread for the machine and it works wonderfully. Silk thread is wonderful to work with. It does a wonderful job of hiding your stitches. Embroidery floss and perle cotton thread both work well for buttonhole applique. Working with quality products pays off in the end so don't skimp on thread quality. For more information on applique check out Hand Applique with Alex Anderson at alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php. If you have a question for Alex please e-mail it to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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What should be included on a label for your quilt?
Always include the name of the maker and the quilter if different, the date and where the quilt was made. Other things you might include are for whom the quilt was made and the associated event, any personal sentiment, ribbons or prizes the quilt has won. Generations to come will appreciate the time and effort you put into your quilt label. For more good tips look in the book Finish It with Alex Anderson at alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php
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I am wanting to try hand quilting but don't want to spend a lot of money right now on a frame. You have mentioned using a sawhorse quilt frame. Where can I get instructions on how to make this frame?
I love to hand quilt and I hope you will too. Building a sawhorse frame is very simple and inexpensive. The instructions for building one are in my book, Hand Quilting with Alex Anderson. Go to alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php to order or you can find the book at your local library. Enjoy many years of beautiful quilting.
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My pieced border does not quite fit my quilt top. Is there anything I can do besides putting a solid piece border onto my quilt?
Yes, one simple solution is to add an inner border to make up the difference. Another is to insert an appropriately sized spacer to make the necessary adjustment to the pieced border. This spacer can be a simple strip, or a specially designed unit or block relating to the quilt and border design. Center the spacer in the border, or place it randomly. If you wish, use it to change direction of the border units or blocks. For more information on borders and how to enhance your quilt top check out Finish It with Alex Anderson at alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php.
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What really is easing and is there a proper way to do it?
Easing is when two pieces that are slightly different in size are being sewn together. You need to pin the places where the two pieces should match. To distribute the excess fabric evenly you may also need to pin between the other pins. You will then sew the seam with the larger piece on the bottom so that the feed dogs will ease the two pieces together.
If you have a question for Alex you may email DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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When I try to measure across the center of my quilt to get the length of my border I always come up short. What am I doing wrong?
It's not unusual for the edges of your quilt top to stretch a bit during the construction process. If you cut borders to match these slightly skewed outer-edge measurements, you'll end up with a bad case of wavy borders. To avoid this , measure your quilt throught its center, both hoizontally and vertically, rather than along its outside edges. Use these measurements to cut the borders. It is even helpful to measure top, center and bottom both horizontally and vertically and average these measurements to determine border length. You can learn more about borders and finishing your quilts in Finish It with Alex Anderson. alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php
If you have questions for Alex please e-mail them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I recently was able to turn an extra room in my home into a quilting room. What are some things I should keep in mind as I design my work space?
Good lighting is very important. Use as much natural light as you can with skylights and if you can layout the room so that it has morning exposure, even better. Your cutting table should be at an appropriate heighth for you so that you put the least amount of strain on your back. The same would be true of your sewing table. Every quilt room should have a design wall. Mine is made of celotex covered with gridded flannel. For storing fabric I have found that a good closet organizer unit with wire baskets no more than 2 rungs deep is a great choice. If you have questions for Alex please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I am redoing my sewing room. What type of lights should I put in?
I chose halogen because the light is fairly pure, many bulbs have under colors believe it or not. The challenge with Halogen is that it puts off a lot of heat. The sky lights coupled with the halogen is the perfect union. I typically only have to turn on the lights if it is a dreary day and then they keep me warm.
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I have a great idea (at least I think so) for a show on Simply Quilts. How do I submit my idea?
We love getting great ideas. Send a proposal to Simply Quilts. The packet should contain excellent photography and the information that will be taught. Simply Quilts is primarily looking for inspirational and innovative techniques available to quilters today. Mail your proposal to PMB 139, 1141 Catalina Dr., Livermore, CA 94550.
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I am teaching my 10 year old daughter to quilt. I am nervous about her using the rotary cutter and the ruler seems to move easily on her. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Yes, I do. I would urge you to buy her klutz gloves to rotary cut with. They are special gloves that will protect her fingers while rotary cutting. They can be purchased at your local quilt store or on line. Something that works really well for the ruler so it won't move is to put clear plastic dots on the corners of your ruler. It keeps it in place while you cut, especially for those who do not have a lot of strength in their hands to hold it still while cutting. They too can be purchased at your local quilt store. Please check out my book Kids Start Quilting with Alex Anderson. It is filled with wonderful ideas and suggestions for kids. You can order it from www.alexandersonquilts.com. If you have further questions or ideas please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I am not having much luck in finding a thimble that really works for me. Are there specific things I should look for when choosing a thimble for hand quilting?
Wearing a thimble at first feels awkward but in time you will come to depend on it. The most important thing a thimble must have is deep dimples. The thimble's job is to hold the eye of the needle as you rock it up and down through the three layers of the quilt. Your thimble should be comfortable, but so loose that it falls off when you gently shake your hand. Thimbles are a very personal choice and it make take some experimenting to find the thimble that works right for you. To learn more check out Hand Quilting with Alex Anderson. This book can be ordered from www.alexandersonquilts.com. If you have a question you would like answered mail them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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A reader is looking for a pattern and we are asking for your help in locating it.
The pattern is called Stars and Stripes and it is Amish. The pattern is also on the cover of the Feb 2003 issue of Quilter's World but cannot find a copy. If you can help find this pattern for our reader please e-mail DeeAAQ@hotmail.com. Thank you.
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What type of marking pen would you recommend for marking your quilt top?
I usually recommend pre-marking fancy quilting motifs using a silver Verithin pencil. For corrections or additions while quilting, I use a white charcoal pencil or white powder chalk. Avoid using a #2 lead pencil. Often the markings do not come out of the fabric. Always test a colored marking product to make sure it will come out of the fabric you want to use it on before marking your quilt top. If you have questions to ask Alex, please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I use only extra-fine glass head pins. They do cost a bit more, but the less expensive quilting pins are thick and long. They will distort the seam alignments. There are additional helps on page 21 of the book Rotary Cutting with Alex Anderson. It can be ordered at www.alexandersonquilts.com/cart/category.php
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A focus fabric is a fabric you fall in love with. You let the focus fabric dictate the other fabric selections you choose to make your quilt or you let it inspire you without necessarily using it in your quilt. Choose fabrics that relate to all the different colors in the focus fabric and have interesting prints. When using a focus fabric you are letting the fabric designer inspire the color selection for you. Find more helpful tips and techniques in Alex's book Rotary Cutting with Alex Anderson.
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As an ardent fabric collector I manage to mooch fabric from the most unusual places. Not knowing all my fabrics' histories, I think it is prudent to at least test for color-fastness and shrinkage. Chemicals are also used in the manufacturing process that should be considered. I usually do this in my washing machine, using warm water and mild detergent, and checking for water with a strange tint. All quilters have their own philosopy on this subject; however, I can assure you it is a sad day when your new, crisp, white masterpiece has turned a dull shade of pink. It can weaken the heart of even the strongest quiltmaker! If you have questions for Alex please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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I suggest you start with a simple pattern made up of squares or rectangles. My favorites for beginners are rail fence or log cabin. Another good idea is to keep the project small. There are wonderful helpful hints in my book, Start Quilting. See below for more information. If you have questions you would like Alex to answer please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
Start Quilting with Alex Anderson
Price: $12.95
AlexAndersonquilts.com/cart/category.php
Ease into the world of quiltmaking by learning about the equipment, fabrics, and basic techniques necessary to complete your first quilt. By the end of chapter three you will be ready to start your first project, chosen from the six simple wall quilt patterns given. Simple, easy and clear. 40 pages, color throughout.
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There is definitely conflicting information on how hard the ironing surface needs to be and whether or not to use steam. I recommend that you use steam to get those flat well pressed seams. However, steam can distort your block if you are not pressing correctly. If you are piecing, the surface you iron on should be HARD. If it is applique you are working on it should be soft and you should press up side down. I also layer a towel between my ironing surface and my applique. Press on the right side (as to not press tucks) when going in one direction. Remember to press, not iron. If you are working with six seams or more press them open. With these I press from the back.
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When doing needle turn applique it can be helpful to use a drop or two of basting glue to hold your pieces in place as well as pinning. On larger pieces it can be helpful to applique up one side of your piece then turn the piece and applique down the other. This helps to straighten out your work. Please watch the helpful hints articles for further help with applique. If you have questions you would like Alex to answer please send them to DeeAAQ@hotmail.com.
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1. A sawtooth star finished size must be divisable by 4 (it is a four patch block).
2. Take the different areas and add the magic number to the finished sizes.
3. Center square - finishes at 4 inches - cut at 4 1/2 inches.
4. Corner squares - finishes at 2 inches - cut at 2 1/2 inches
Flying Geese units
1. smaller triangles are 1/2 square, so cut 2 squares at 2 7/8 inches then cut corner to corner.
2. Larger triangle is 1/4 square, cut 1 square at 5 1/4 inches then cut corner to corner twice.
It is all in the magic numbers, they are constant and never change. My rotary cutting book is an excellent guide for this.
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One of my readers sent in a great tool to use for marking quilt tops. Susan Moore spent 5 years looking for the perfect thing for marking quilt tops and she has finally found it. General's Charcoal Pencils - can be found at most stationary stores, art supply stores, and Michael's. They come in many colors-black and white is what she has tried. They do work great-the white is much better for dark fabrics than the silver pencil. The charcoal comes out easily and shows up really well.
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Many of our readers feel the EQ5 is the most versatile. We recommend that you read the design book that comes with the program. It will really familiarize you with the way the program works and help you to be successful right from the start. Check your local quilt stores as well. Many have classes on how to use the EQ5 program. Have fun creating! If you have further questions for Alex, please contact Dee at deeaaq@hotmail.com. Thank you.
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This question came in from one of our readers. Thanks Karen for asking and really answering your own question. Karen writes that when she got her quilt back from the quilter she laid it out to admire her creation and noticed that a block of the quilt was twisted. Because she is a bit of a perfectionist she knew it would bother her to leave it that way. There is no easy way to correct this problem and you really did come up with probably the easiest and best solution. Trace the quilt stitching onto a piece of tissue like paper and remove the block, hand sew it back into place correctly and then reproduce the quilting from your traced paper. Once completed you truly have a beautiful creation you will be proud of. If you have further questions for Alex, please contact Dee at deeaaq@hotmail.com. Thank you.
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To get contact information on guests that have been on Simply Quilts you will need to go to the HGTV site. You may need to have the number of the show to obtain the information you are looking for. If you have further questions for Alex, please contact Dee at deeaaq@hotmail.com. Thank you.
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I chose halogen because the light is fairly pure(many bulbs have under colors believe it or not). The challenge with Halogen is that it puts off a lot of heat. The sky lights coupled wit the halogen is the perfect union. I typically only have to turn on the lights if it is a dreary day and then they keep me warm. :0)
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Potential guests need to send Alex a proposal packet which will be passed on to the producers. The packet should include excellent photography and information which will be taught. Simply Quilts is primarily looking for inspirational and innovative techniques available to quilters today. Please mail information to Alex Anderson. PMB 139, 1141 Catalina Drive, Livermore, CA 94550. Happy Quilting and thanks for all of your kind words about Simply Quilts! If you have questions for Alex please send them to the following address: DeeAAQ@hotmail.com
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